Day 2 back to Tsunami V9 at Chebucto Head, Nova Scotia. My goal this trip was modest; get to the knee-bar rest without falling. It didn’t quite go down as I had hoped but I did make some great progress.
This isn’t my first time projecting Tsunami but I can’t really remember how all the moves were done. I had thought about looking back at the video i shot for Eastern Tide. All the beta is there, I could watch it forward, backward, in slow motion and freeze the exact moments I need to see. But I wondered if I went into it with a preconceived notion of how it’s done would I be robbing myself of a fresh start?
Would I miss some potential new sequence that would save energy ensuring my success?
The best part of working a project with others is the free exchange of ideas and the different styles everyone bring to a climb.
The first day on revealed some excellent beta to make the drop down move significantly easier. The first crux was essentially removed. This session some crucial beta was discovered for the transition into the kneebar rest.
Project Tsunami – Day 2 from Todd Foster on Vimeo.
The weather in Nova Scotia has been terrible this spring and the bugs just as bad so with inland rope climbing out of the picture I’ve started bouldering again and have my eyes on one of Nova Scotia’s most unique boulder problems. Tsunami! Originally sent by Sean Cassidy in 1999 it was graded V8. It was a real call to arms at the time and all the local hardmen were lining up to get on it. After a few hard fought repeats the grade was raised to V10. This was now THE problem to climb. After a bit more time and a few more sends the grade was debated and adjusted finally settling out at V9. At the time i had been filming others as they worked it and occasionally working it myself and after a bit of time i had all the moves dialed and was ready to add my name to the shortlist. But shit happens and i walked away having never completed the hardest boulder problem i’ve ever attempted.
For some insane reason, i’ve decided this is a project i don’t want to leave undone. So this last week I’ve returned to Chebucto Head to re-project Tsunami.
Day one is all about getting familiar with the drop down crimp, the drop knee gaston, the knee bar rest and the fat chest height undercling sections.
The long journey begins…
Project Tsunami – Day 1 from Todd Foster on Vimeo.
Many aspiring climbers seem to start in gyms these days, and it can be a bit of a rude awakening for them when they get out on real rock. It often takes more ingenuity than brawn to unlock the right sequence and send your project. Boulderers can spend many days over many seasons working a seemingly impossible move until one day it just comes together. The crazy part is that, afterwards, the same move sometimes feels effortless – as if we’ve forgotten how difficult it was for us before. Armed with our new knowledge we tackle harder problems, repeating the process and gathering momentum toward bigger grades that seem to fall by faster and faster.
When I cracked V1 for the first time, it felt like all those “sandbagged V0s” that I’d worked so hard on had been relegated to warmup status and I set my sights on the tastiest V2s in the guidebook, expanding the limits of what I believed I was capable of. It happened again and again with every new grade, each falling faster than the last.
There was a time when I thought V10 was an unattainable goal. Today I know that perserverance and hard work will get me there, and maybe sooner than I expect.
The author contemplates Behave V7, the latest problem to fall victim to his mighty gunshow
HOW’S YER MUDDER!?!?!