Day 2 back to Tsunami V9 at Chebucto Head, Nova Scotia. My goal this trip was modest; get to the knee-bar rest without falling. It didn’t quite go down as I had hoped but I did make some great progress.
This isn’t my first time projecting Tsunami but I can’t really remember how all the moves were done. I had thought about looking back at the video i shot for Eastern Tide. All the beta is there, I could watch it forward, backward, in slow motion and freeze the exact moments I need to see. But I wondered if I went into it with a preconceived notion of how it’s done would I be robbing myself of a fresh start?
Would I miss some potential new sequence that would save energy ensuring my success?
The best part of working a project with others is the free exchange of ideas and the different styles everyone bring to a climb.
The first day on revealed some excellent beta to make the drop down move significantly easier. The first crux was essentially removed. This session some crucial beta was discovered for the transition into the kneebar rest.
The weather in Nova Scotia has been terrible this spring and the bugs just as bad so with inland rope climbing out of the picture I’ve started bouldering again and have my eyes on one of Nova Scotia’s most unique boulder problems. Tsunami! Originally sent by Sean Cassidy in 1999 it was graded V8. It was a real call to arms at the time and all the local hardmen were lining up to get on it. After a few hard fought repeats the grade was raised to V10. This was now THE problem to climb. After a bit more time and a few more sends the grade was debated and adjusted finally settling out at V9. At the time i had been filming others as they worked it and occasionally working it myself and after a bit of time i had all the moves dialed and was ready to add my name to the shortlist. But shit happens and i walked away having never completed the hardest boulder problem i’ve ever attempted.
For some insane reason, i’ve decided this is a project i don’t want to leave undone. So this last week I’ve returned to Chebucto Head to re-project Tsunami.
Day one is all about getting familiar with the drop down crimp, the drop knee gaston, the knee bar rest and the fat chest height undercling sections.
The long journey begins…
Chebucto Head is short drive from Halifax, NS and a popular destination for locals in search of a great view. Many people come to watch ships of all kinds as they exit the Halifax harbor and roll by close to shore. This site has been home to several lighthouse keepers until it’s automation in the late 1980’s. Until recently there was a lighthouse keeper’s residence on site, but due to arsonists only the foundations exist now.
The parking remains open to the general public but be warned the road is suffering from neglect and the gate at the entrance closes at dusk. From the main parking area it’s a just a short walk to some excellent coastal bouldering.
Spring has recently began to bless us with here in Nova Scotia with some warm(ish) weather and we were able to get outside for an afternoon.