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Tour De Bloc Halifax

February 20th, 2010 pulldown No comments

The local Tour De Bloc/Valentines Day Massacre was held Feb 13, 2010 at Ground Zero Climbing Gym. Here is a highlight reel from the qualifying round. Finals and Standings coming soon…

Music: Bored on Your Backside by Trifonic
from ccMixter.org

Dot CAs. Be proud.

January 24th, 2010 pulldown 1 comment

I know there are a lot of climbers out there that are big fans of Classified.
Just though I would share.

Bouldering Bully

January 19th, 2010 pulldown 3 comments

IMG_0783I remember scrambling down around this impressive sea wall. Standing in its daunting shadow I had flashbacks of the high school bully peering down at me, taunting me to make the first move and just like back then I slowly backed off.
The Bully Wall is arguably the biggest, steepest and most intimidating seaside wall found here in Nova Scotia. It’s actually quite surprising that it went undiscovered or at least unreported for so long. Even after a small crew of us found the wall we were tempted to keep it secret, and we managed for a while, but as usual our excitement got the best of us and the word got out. Before the other local big time pullers got to the wall we managed to get in a few first ascents.
Located somewhere along the coast of the Aspotogan Peninsula, the Bully wall consists of three seaside granite outcrops. So for there are less than a dozen established problems ranging from V0 to V4. The biggest wall is littered with solid holds through the bottom half offering multiple quality variations on the starts of potential problems. On the upper section, the wall steepens and the holds thin out, so the bulk of the best lines are still undone.
On one of the early trips to the bully wall Ben Smith put up the boulder problem called “Lost Ones” and gave it a V4 rating. To the best of my knowledge it is still unrepeated so the grade made change (It’ll probably go up).

Bouldering Nova scotia – Bully Wall from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Seal Cove Bouldering, Newfoundland

January 6th, 2010 pulldown No comments

I received this article from Shawn White earlier this year but with such nice weather through Summer and Fall it just didn”t seem appropriate.  Now with snow everywhere…

Seal Cove consists of a cluster of outcrops on an elevated bog located just outside Stephenville, Newfoundland.  Whiles it’s only about 3km from the popular bouldering area of Gull Pond, it remained concealed, bordered in thick brush and hills.  It wasn’t until late fall 2008 when Mike hiked a newly completed portion of the International Appalachian Trail that it was discovered.  In February 2009 Mike returned to hike the trail with Shawn to show what he had come across – big, overhanging, highly featured quality granite.
In late march the weather began to cooperate and the pair returned bearing pads and brushes.  The area maquinas de slots has seen roughly twenty problems go up with many more problems and projects still to go.  The only downside to the area, the boys joke, is the twenty five minute hike into it.  Most climbing areas in Western Newfoundland are accessed in five minutes from the car.  But as the weather keeps improving, so should the hike, so stay tuned for future developments!

For more information on this area or others around Newfoundland, feel free and email Shawn at shawnewhite@hotmail.com

Seal Cove wall

Mike working the project

Boulderfest 2009

July 4th, 2009 pulldown No comments

2009 marks the 9th annual Boulderfest held by Climb Nova Scotia. The event this year takes place during the long weekend in August (1st & 2nd). The cost of the weekend event is $40 for Climb Nova Scotia members and $50 for non-members.

On top of the guaranteed good time, the price of the ticket includes boat ride to the island, dinner and breakfast, event T-Shirt, welcome package and much more.

Boulderfest Poster

There are a limited number of seats available so sign up soon.
Get your tickets here: http://www.climbnovascotia.ca/Boulderfest2009.html

And to get you psyched, watch the Dover Island section from Eastern Tide: One Season in Nova Scotia.

Boulderfest from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

The learning curve

June 6th, 2009 mick No comments

Many aspiring climbers seem to start in gyms these days, and it can be a bit of a rude awakening for them when they get out on real rock. It often takes more ingenuity than brawn to unlock the right sequence and send your project. Boulderers can spend many days over many seasons working a seemingly impossible move until one day it just comes together. The crazy part is that, afterwards, the same move sometimes feels effortless – as if we’ve forgotten how difficult it was for us before. Armed with our new knowledge we tackle harder problems, repeating the process and gathering momentum toward bigger grades that seem to fall by faster and faster.

When I cracked V1 for the first time, it felt like all those “sandbagged V0s” that I’d worked so hard on had been relegated to warmup status and I set my sights on the tastiest V2s in the guidebook, expanding the limits of what I believed I was capable of. It happened again and again with every new grade, each falling faster than the last.

There was a time when I thought V10 was an unattainable goal. Today I know that perserverance and hard work will get me there, and maybe sooner than I expect.

Categories: Dover Island Tags: , ,

Three Towers.

April 11th, 2009 pulldown 1 comment

I can’t even remember exactly when we found the Land of Confusion (AKA the LOC), the first major bouldering area in Nova Scotia. Was it 10, 11 or 12 years ago? No matter, at the time it seemed like such a big deal and after a few winters of exploring and climbing we wondered if we had tapped out the area. It seemed at the time that this would be a rare discovery. This was not to be the case. Every year since that first exploratory mission into the barrens surrounding Peggy’s Cove has revealed at least one new area.

Last year, during a quick recon around the Musquodoboit area we found another new spot. Unfortunately the area is way back in a logging area and the roads are a bit dicey even for my 4×4 Jeep. In some places the “road” resembles quicksand. In early March a window of opportunity opened up where the road wasn’t completely impassable and we were able to get relatively close. The search is on for easier access and I’m sure with the proper motivation a new approach will be found. Until then here is a some video i shot that day of Mick Levin, President of Climb Nova Scotia.


Three Towers Bouldering from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Music By: Ghost_k
From: ccmixter.org

It’s a dirty job but…

April 3rd, 2009 mick No comments

Boulderers are a fickle bunch. We often think of ourselves as stewards of the environment when we ride our bicycles to work and school, pick up trash we find at boulders and on trails, and scrub off tick marks when we fold up our pads to head home. We subscribe to the leave-no-trace policy, eat locally grown organic foods, and vote for politicians and policies that respect the planet and preserve wild places. These are important and worthwhile efforts, and everyone can understand their benefits.

But sometimes other actions are needed, ones that may seem counter-intuitive at first. Take trail maintenance for example. Granted, firing up a brush saw, covering a swamp with lumber, or hacking through the forest with a machete are not the sort of thing everyone should be doing every time they go climbing. But where would we be without trail work? We’d be lost and bushwhacking, sinking deeper and deeper into the muddy, eroding path, or gradually widening the trails until ATVs decide to ruin them.

Did you think that your favorite boulder always had a clear and flat 2m perimeter around it on which to place pads and spotters? Ever wonder why lichen seems to only grow on the side of the boulder without any good problems? How come this “game trail” leads right from the parking to the boulders?

Now now Captain Planet, don’t give up climbing to play hacky sack full time. The fact of the matter is that climbing is still one of the lowest-impact recreational activities. We change nature just by venturing into it, but we can still be responsible in the way we use it and take steps to protect its use for those who come after us.

Twin Sisters of Pain

March 21st, 2009 pulldown 1 comment

Chebucto Head is short drive from Halifax, NS and a popular destination for locals in search of a great view. Many people come to watch ships of all kinds as they exit the Halifax harbor and roll by close to shore. This site has been home to several lighthouse keepers until it’s automation in the late 1980’s. Until recently there was a lighthouse keeper’s residence on site, but due to arsonists only the foundations exist now.

The parking remains open to the general public but be warned the road is suffering from neglect and the gate at the entrance closes at dusk. From the main parking area it’s a just a short walk to some excellent coastal bouldering.

Spring has recently began to bless us with here in Nova Scotia with some warm(ish) weather and we were able to get outside for an afternoon.


Twin Sisters of Pain – Chebucto Head from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Sweetspots Night Sessions

March 19th, 2009 pulldown No comments

MEC has launched a Youtube channel where you can watch lots of outdoor videos and a new highlight reel from the Sweet Spots contest featuring some footage from “Night Sessions“. It’s dark, like really dark.

Many thanks to all our members who participated in MEC’s first annual Sweet Spots Outdoor Video Contest. Here is a collection of our favourite clips from the many hours of 2008 footage
we received. Get stoked for your next paddling, skiing, climbing, hiking or cycling adventure!

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