I remember scrambling down around this impressive sea wall. Standing in its daunting shadow I had flashbacks of the high school bully peering down at me, taunting me to make the first move and just like back then I slowly backed off.
The Bully Wall is arguably the biggest, steepest and most intimidating seaside wall found here in Nova Scotia. It’s actually quite surprising that it went undiscovered or at least unreported for so long. Even after a small crew of us found the wall we were tempted to keep it secret, and we managed for a while, but as usual our excitement got the best of us and the word got out. Before the other local big time pullers got to the wall we managed to get in a few first ascents.
Located somewhere along the coast of the Aspotogan Peninsula, the Bully wall consists of three seaside granite outcrops. So for there are less than a dozen established problems ranging from V0 to V4. The biggest wall is littered with solid holds through the bottom half offering multiple quality variations on the starts of potential problems. On the upper section, the wall steepens and the holds thin out, so the bulk of the best lines are still undone.
On one of the early trips to the bully wall Ben Smith put up the boulder problem called “Lost Ones” and gave it a V4 rating. To the best of my knowledge it is still unrepeated so the grade made change (It’ll probably go up).
2009 marks the 9th annual Boulderfest held by Climb Nova Scotia. The event this year takes place during the long weekend in August (1st & 2nd). The cost of the weekend event is $40 for Climb Nova Scotia members and $50 for non-members.
On top of the guaranteed good time, the price of the ticket includes boat ride to the island, dinner and breakfast, event T-Shirt, welcome package and much more.
There are a limited number of seats available so sign up soon.
Get your tickets here: http://www.climbnovascotia.ca/Boulderfest2009.html
And to get you psyched, watch the Dover Island section from Eastern Tide: One Season in Nova Scotia.
I can’t even remember exactly when we found the Land of Confusion (AKA the LOC), the first major bouldering area in Nova Scotia. Was it 10, 11 or 12 years ago? No matter, at the time it seemed like such a big deal and after a few winters of exploring and climbing we wondered if we had tapped out the area. It seemed at the time that this would be a rare discovery. This was not to be the case. Every year since that first exploratory mission into the barrens surrounding Peggy’s Cove has revealed at least one new area.
Last year, during a quick recon around the Musquodoboit area we found another new spot. Unfortunately the area is way back in a logging area and the roads are a bit dicey even for my 4×4 Jeep. In some places the “road” resembles quicksand. In early March a window of opportunity opened up where the road wasn’t completely impassable and we were able to get relatively close. The search is on for easier access and I’m sure with the proper motivation a new approach will be found. Until then here is a some video i shot that day of Mick Levin, President of Climb Nova Scotia.
Chebucto Head is short drive from Halifax, NS and a popular destination for locals in search of a great view. Many people come to watch ships of all kinds as they exit the Halifax harbor and roll by close to shore. This site has been home to several lighthouse keepers until it’s automation in the late 1980’s. Until recently there was a lighthouse keeper’s residence on site, but due to arsonists only the foundations exist now.
The parking remains open to the general public but be warned the road is suffering from neglect and the gate at the entrance closes at dusk. From the main parking area it’s a just a short walk to some excellent coastal bouldering.
Spring has recently began to bless us with here in Nova Scotia with some warm(ish) weather and we were able to get outside for an afternoon.