I can’t even remember exactly when we found the Land of Confusion (AKA the LOC), the first major bouldering area in Nova Scotia. Was it 10, 11 or 12 years ago? No matter, at the time it seemed like such a big deal and after a few winters of exploring and climbing we wondered if we had tapped out the area. It seemed at the time that this would be a rare discovery. This was not to be the case. Every year since that first exploratory mission into the barrens surrounding Peggy’s Cove has revealed at least one new area.
Last year, during a quick recon around the Musquodoboit area we found another new spot. Unfortunately the area is way back in a logging area and the roads are a bit dicey even for my 4×4 Jeep. In some places the “road” resembles quicksand. In early March a window of opportunity opened up where the road wasn’t completely impassable and we were able to get relatively close. The search is on for easier access and I’m sure with the proper motivation a new approach will be found. Until then here is a some video i shot that day of Mick Levin, President of Climb Nova Scotia.
Boulderers are a fickle bunch. We often think of ourselves as stewards of the environment when we ride our bicycles to work and school, pick up trash we find at boulders and on trails, and scrub off tick marks when we fold up our pads to head home. We subscribe to the leave-no-trace policy, eat locally grown organic foods, and vote for politicians and policies that respect the planet and preserve wild places. These are important and worthwhile efforts, and everyone can understand their benefits.
But sometimes other actions are needed, ones that may seem counter-intuitive at first. Take trail maintenance for example. Granted, firing up a brush saw, covering a swamp with lumber, or hacking through the forest with a machete are not the sort of thing everyone should be doing every time they go climbing. But where would we be without trail work? We’d be lost and bushwhacking, sinking deeper and deeper into the muddy, eroding path, or gradually widening the trails until ATVs decide to ruin them.
Did you think that your favorite boulder always had a clear and flat 2m perimeter around it on which to place pads and spotters? Ever wonder why lichen seems to only grow on the side of the boulder without any good problems? How come this “game trail” leads right from the parking to the boulders?
Now now Captain Planet, don’t give up climbing to play hacky sack full time. The fact of the matter is that climbing is still one of the lowest-impact recreational activities. We change nature just by venturing into it, but we can still be responsible in the way we use it and take steps to protect its use for those who come after us.
CNS trail work volunteer brandishes the tools of the trade
Chebucto Head is short drive from Halifax, NS and a popular destination for locals in search of a great view. Many people come to watch ships of all kinds as they exit the Halifax harbor and roll by close to shore. This site has been home to several lighthouse keepers until it’s automation in the late 1980’s. Until recently there was a lighthouse keeper’s residence on site, but due to arsonists only the foundations exist now.
The parking remains open to the general public but be warned the road is suffering from neglect and the gate at the entrance closes at dusk. From the main parking area it’s a just a short walk to some excellent coastal bouldering.
Spring has recently began to bless us with here in Nova Scotia with some warm(ish) weather and we were able to get outside for an afternoon.
I headed out to the LOC on Monday with my girlfriend and her brothers who were in town for the holidays. We carried some more lumber into the wet approach of Nouveau Riche & Great Cheesecake and plopped down a few rudimentary bridges but more work is definitely needed.
It was a beautiful sunny day with great friction and I’d never climbed there before so I was super psyched. Sent some fun lines but didn’t get on any of the harder stuff – can’t wait to try Dynamitus, it looks awesome!
