I can’t even remember exactly when we found the Land of Confusion (AKA the LOC), the first major bouldering area in Nova Scotia. Was it 10, 11 or 12 years ago? No matter, at the time it seemed like such a big deal and after a few winters of exploring and climbing we wondered if we had tapped out the area. It seemed at the time that this would be a rare discovery. This was not to be the case. Every year since that first exploratory mission into the barrens surrounding Peggy’s Cove has revealed at least one new area.
Last year, during a quick recon around the Musquodoboit area we found another new spot. Unfortunately the area is way back in a logging area and the roads are a bit dicey even for my 4×4 Jeep. In some places the “road” resembles quicksand. In early March a window of opportunity opened up where the road wasn’t completely impassable and we were able to get relatively close. The search is on for easier access and I’m sure with the proper motivation a new approach will be found. Until then here is a some video i shot that day of Mick Levin, President of Climb Nova Scotia.
Chebucto Head is short drive from Halifax, NS and a popular destination for locals in search of a great view. Many people come to watch ships of all kinds as they exit the Halifax harbor and roll by close to shore. This site has been home to several lighthouse keepers until it’s automation in the late 1980’s. Until recently there was a lighthouse keeper’s residence on site, but due to arsonists only the foundations exist now.
The parking remains open to the general public but be warned the road is suffering from neglect and the gate at the entrance closes at dusk. From the main parking area it’s a just a short walk to some excellent coastal bouldering.
Spring has recently began to bless us with here in Nova Scotia with some warm(ish) weather and we were able to get outside for an afternoon.
MEC has launched a Youtube channel where you can watch lots of outdoor videos and a new highlight reel from the Sweet Spots contest featuring some footage from “Night Sessions“. It’s dark, like really dark.
Many thanks to all our members who participated in MEC’s first annual Sweet Spots Outdoor Video Contest. Here is a collection of our favourite clips from the many hours of 2008 footage
we received. Get stoked for your next paddling, skiing, climbing, hiking or cycling adventure!
From deep down in the basement of Pull Down Productions, emerges a terrifying monster.
The Godzilla boulder is probably one of the largest boulders in the Land of Confusion, but it’s definitely the biggest with the fewest problems on it. I filmed this video on a late winter trip deep into the LOC. I’m not sure what the name or even the grade of the problem is. This may be the first ascent but it’s hard to say. It’s location means it is rarely visited.
Just before Christmas the Grotto crew were back in the soon to be opened, new and improved, Ground Zero Climbing Gym to lend a hand. The main part of the bouldering cave is finished. To give you an idea of how big it is, Craig spent the better part of the night hanging holds and it only looks like a spattering of holds were put up.
Mick had his still camera there and captured a small video clip.
Most trails in the Land Of Confusion are a lot like those magic eye posters – it doesn’t look like there’s anything there until someone points it out to you (and even then it can be hard to find). Climb Nova Scotia has been interested in improving access to the LOC for a while, so after an exploratory mission last weekend, Todd and I returned with some lumber yesterday. The plan is to build walkways along some of the wetter bits and cut back the brush that grows over and obscures the trails. Hopefully better paths will mean less bushwhacking and fewer lost climbers in the surrounding sensitive wetlands.
In late October Nova Scotia’s original commercial climbing gym closed it’s doors in preparation for a major upgrade. Sean Therien the owner of Ground Zero Climbing Gym has been working steadily on moving his facility to a larger location. The new local is two and a half times longer and an added four feet higher. At first the extra height doesn’t sound like a lot but when you’re at the top in the Jeanie lift it sure looks a lot higher.
I know that everyone is anxious to see the the new facility opened, so the regular Grotto (my basement home wall) crew gave up an evening of hard core crancking to lend a hand. Sean had already made a great deal of progress and after a night of framing, hanging panels and putting up holds we are even closer to seeing the doors open. There is no definite date for opening but it all goes well it could be as early as late December.
This is a photo taken during or road trip to Rose Blanche, NFLD in August of 2008. This super clean granite offer seemingly endless bouldering just 40 Minutes from the Port-Aux-Basque ferry.
Are you an MEC member? If you 