Day 2 back to Tsunami V9 at Chebucto Head, Nova Scotia. My goal this trip was modest; get to the knee-bar rest without falling. It didn’t quite go down as I had hoped but I did make some great progress.
This isn’t my first time projecting Tsunami but I can’t really remember how all the moves were done. I had thought about looking back at the video i shot for Eastern Tide. All the beta is there, I could watch it forward, backward, in slow motion and freeze the exact moments I need to see. But I wondered if I went into it with a preconceived notion of how it’s done would I be robbing myself of a fresh start?
Would I miss some potential new sequence that would save energy ensuring my success?
The best part of working a project with others is the free exchange of ideas and the different styles everyone bring to a climb.
The first day on revealed some excellent beta to make the drop down move significantly easier. The first crux was essentially removed. This session some crucial beta was discovered for the transition into the kneebar rest.
The weather in Nova Scotia has been terrible this spring and the bugs just as bad so with inland rope climbing out of the picture I’ve started bouldering again and have my eyes on one of Nova Scotia’s most unique boulder problems. Tsunami! Originally sent by Sean Cassidy in 1999 it was graded V8. It was a real call to arms at the time and all the local hardmen were lining up to get on it. After a few hard fought repeats the grade was raised to V10. This was now THE problem to climb. After a bit more time and a few more sends the grade was debated and adjusted finally settling out at V9. At the time i had been filming others as they worked it and occasionally working it myself and after a bit of time i had all the moves dialed and was ready to add my name to the shortlist. But shit happens and i walked away having never completed the hardest boulder problem i’ve ever attempted.
For some insane reason, i’ve decided this is a project i don’t want to leave undone. So this last week I’ve returned to Chebucto Head to re-project Tsunami.
Day one is all about getting familiar with the drop down crimp, the drop knee gaston, the knee bar rest and the fat chest height undercling sections.
The long journey begins…
This past summer brought a lot of interesting people to Nova Scotia and Boulderfest especially. I was back filming Boulderfest again so I didn’t have much time to socialize, but the people i did manage to meet were all great people passionate about climbing. While there i met David, Editor and owner of Climberism magazine. Climberism is an online magazine focusing on the Northeast. Although there is a lot to say about this new online magazine i will simply say it has great photos, and good stories from people and places you rarely hear about in other publication.
The most recent issue features an article about Atlantic storms and their devastating effect on Nova Scotia bouldering areas and a review of “Eastern Tide“.
Check it out, book mark it, follow it on twitter, Facebook, and coming soon brain stem implant.
Valentines Day in Halifax, NS has been traditionally marked with the Valentines Day Massacre climbing competition at Ground Zero Climbing Gym. This year things were a bit different. The Massacre was married with the local Tour De Bloc event, and what an event! The pool of strong climbers was larger this year with the return of Ben Blakney and Krissy Lunney to Halifax after an extended leave from the Nova Scotia scene. Locals Ben and Nate Smith and Chris Richardson have also improved dramatically over the past year and a contingent of climbers from New Brunswick upped the anti on this year comp. With the amazing features from Bolo Climbing Holds and the excellent route setting by the Ground Zero crew and Ghislain Losier, this year proved to be the best comp yet.
Coming out of the qualifying round the top Eight climbers in the Men’s Open division were:
Going into the finals it looked like it could be anyone’s game. Ben smith went into the finals strong but was recovering from an illness (probably ate a bad squirrel) and didn’t have enough in the reserve tank to reclaim the WBF (World Bouldering Federation) belt this year and for a while it looked like younger brother Nathan would outshine him. Chris Richardson and Ben Blakney also had an excellent showings in the finals but Chris flashed the second problem bumping him into first place running.
The big surprise was outsider Eric Sethna. It’s rumored this young gun has been crushing at comps all through the east and Halifax was no exception. Eric was able to pull through a tiny crimper on the third problem to get the finishing hold and was the only climber to get all four finals problems solidifying his first place win.
Men’s Final Results
1. Eric Sethna
2. Chris Richardson
3. Ben Blakney
Special thanks to Scott Richardson and Trevor Schellinck for assisiting the Pull Down Production team in producing the Tour De Bloc videos.
I remember scrambling down around this impressive sea wall. Standing in its daunting shadow I had flashbacks of the high school bully peering down at me, taunting me to make the first move and just like back then I slowly backed off.
The Bully Wall is arguably the biggest, steepest and most intimidating seaside wall found here in Nova Scotia. It’s actually quite surprising that it went undiscovered or at least unreported for so long. Even after a small crew of us found the wall we were tempted to keep it secret, and we managed for a while, but as usual our excitement got the best of us and the word got out. Before the other local big time pullers got to the wall we managed to get in a few first ascents.
Located somewhere along the coast of the Aspotogan Peninsula, the Bully wall consists of three seaside granite outcrops. So for there are less than a dozen established problems ranging from V0 to V4. The biggest wall is littered with solid holds through the bottom half offering multiple quality variations on the starts of potential problems. On the upper section, the wall steepens and the holds thin out, so the bulk of the best lines are still undone.
On one of the early trips to the bully wall Ben Smith put up the boulder problem called “Lost Ones” and gave it a V4 rating. To the best of my knowledge it is still unrepeated so the grade made change (It’ll probably go up).
I received this article from Shawn White earlier this year but with such nice weather through Summer and Fall it just didn”t seem appropriate. Now with snow everywhere…
Seal Cove consists of a cluster of outcrops on an elevated bog located just outside Stephenville, Newfoundland. Whiles it’s only about 3km from the popular bouldering area of Gull Pond, it remained concealed, bordered in thick brush and hills. It wasn’t until late fall 2008 when Mike hiked a newly completed portion of the International Appalachian Trail that it was discovered. In February 2009 Mike returned to hike the trail with Shawn to show what he had come across – big, overhanging, highly featured quality granite.
In late march the weather began to cooperate and the pair returned bearing pads and brushes. The area maquinas de slots has seen roughly twenty problems go up with many more problems and projects still to go. The only downside to the area, the boys joke, is the twenty five minute hike into it. Most climbing areas in Western Newfoundland are accessed in five minutes from the car. But as the weather keeps improving, so should the hike, so stay tuned for future developments!
For more information on this area or others around Newfoundland, feel free and email Shawn at email@example.com
2009 marks the 9th annual Boulderfest held by Climb Nova Scotia. The event this year takes place during the long weekend in August (1st & 2nd). The cost of the weekend event is $40 for Climb Nova Scotia members and $50 for non-members.
On top of the guaranteed good time, the price of the ticket includes boat ride to the island, dinner and breakfast, event T-Shirt, welcome package and much more.
There are a limited number of seats available so sign up soon.
Get your tickets here: http://www.climbnovascotia.ca/Boulderfest2009.html
And to get you psyched, watch the Dover Island section from Eastern Tide: One Season in Nova Scotia.